I went to rural Wales to bathe in starlight and the Milky Way blew me away
8 hours ago Rowenna HoskinCeredigion, west Wales The first thing that strikes me is the darkness. I can't see any stars - only clouds. Four-and-a-half hours later, at 22:30, the stars finally emerge, and it is breathtaking. The stars extend as far as the eye can see, in every direction. I'm with Siân and James Harrison, two avid star fans who've travelled from Cardiff to the tiny hamlet of Gogoyan, in the sweeping Ceredigion countryside in west Wales. We're here to immerse ourselves in the night sky with the help of a guide. Lying on a blanket spread out on the ground, we gaze up at Jupiter, one of the brightest planets in the sky. Poiting with a green laser which extends into the night sky, Dafydd Wyn Morgan, owner of astrotourism company Serydda, shows us three stars in a line, telling us he loves Orion's Belt. James chimes in, saying it's his favourite constellation, as the region surrounding it is a part of space where stars are constantly being born.
"I'll focus on something and it'll be 150 million light years away," James says.
"I can't quantify that. " A sense of calm washes over me. I feel like I'm looking at the same sky my ancestors would have seen. Wyn Morgan's star bathing sessions involve setting up a smart telescope then lying on the ground looking up at the sky and talking about the sights on show that night - as well the myths and legends connected to them.
"It's about the feeling at that precise moment," Wyn Morgan says, "how it makes you feel emotionally," rather than something more scientific which requires you to know about everything you see.
It's an experience which has seen rising interest - with 72% of people considering visiting darker sky destinations with star bathing experiences in a Booking.
com survey of 27,000 travellers.
Having driven up to Llyn Teifi in the Cambrian mountains, we stand on a bridge, surrounded by rocky outcrops and marshland. "Can you smell that?" Wyn Morgan asks. "Breathing in the night sky is something totally different: Cool, cold, fresh and pure - like drinking water from a well. " Humans have always been attracted to the night sky. "It goes back to the very core of humanity," explains Dani Robertson, a dark skies officer for Snowdonia National Park. She says 98% of the UK population lives under a light-polluted sky. We're getting to the third or fourth generation of people who see very few stars - if any, she explains.
Wales is home to two of the six UK national parks with International Dark Sky Reserve status.
People travel from places like London to her events, she says, because it's their only opportunity to see the stars and experience true darkness. Robertson arranges stargazing in her mobile observatory, night hikes, swims and meteor watch parties.
For people who live in urban environments, "it's hugely moving, it's a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity". "I can't run enough events to keep up with demand," Robertson says. "Every event has a huge waiting list. "
"When we 'get lost' observing nature, we experience an optimal level of arousal.
We are not bored, nor too excited - and that gives us the feeling of 'positive relaxation'," she says.
But there is a threat to these benefits.
Although the night sky is not going anywhere, our view of it is at risk.
We stand in silence and stare at the collection of gas, dust, dark matter and billions of stars. "To be able to look at these things and appreciate the beauty," James says, "the majesty and the scale of it - it's just amazing
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